Style
Men’s fashion manifesto – does the suit still hold its unique position when neo-tailoring dominates the fashion industry?
Jan
From the outfit that represents power and status, is the suit gradually losing its position when the number of suits sold to men in the US and UK is decreasing in the past few years?
Men’s fashion manifesto – does the suit still hold its unique position when neo-tailoring dominates the fashion industry?
With a history of more than 400 years, the suit has formed a line of thought in men’s fashion, a symbol of standards, elegance, and power.
Regardless of the era, suits should be carefully designed and tailored. Wearing a sharp suit is how the wearer shows sophistication and thoughtfulness. “Men have to learn to wear suits like women learn to wear high heels.” This comment by designer Tom Ford has affirmed the importance of the suit in an elegant man’s wardrobe.
In the UK, however, suit sales fell from £460 million in 2017 to £157 million in 2020. More notably, suits were removed from the list of goods used to calculate inflation rates. produced annually in this country since 2022 although it has always been there since 1947. This trend pulls a series of famous suit tailors such as Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies, and Simon Cundey… to the brink. bankrupt.
In addition, Marks & Spencer, one of the world’s leading multinational retailers, only sells suits in 110 stores – up from 254 stores before. Falling sales have forced the retailer to shift to a retail strategy of pants and vests so they can be paired with more casual items.
The cause of this decline is attributed to the Covid-19 pandemic. The period when the whole society is closed to working from home has made shopping for work clothes no longer necessary. People are gradually turning to easy-to-wear, more practical items.
The Grammy 2022 red carpet saw famous singer Justin Bieber don an oversized suit from the Balenciaga fashion house with a white T-shirt, pink beanie hat, and stylized Crocs studded with nails. Earlier at the Venice Film Festival, the silver silk suit worn by Timothee Chalamet partly changed the view of the majority of the audience about the suit.
In addition to the trendsetters, many major fashion brands also launch designs that contribute to renewing the image of the suit. Typically, the Tailleur Oblique vest of the Dior fashion house is under the hands of creative director Kim Jones. Inspired by the classic 1950s Oblique design, Kim Jones created the Tailleur Oblique – a more feminine and soft top with a perfect single-button cut and a right button-down for a snug fit. wearer without causing suffocation.
In fact, suits don’t go away, they just transform to become more relevant to contemporary trends and lifestyles. Looking back at Robert Pattinson’s recent red-carpet fashion, it can be seen that he increasingly favors oversized suits. At the premiere of the movie “Batman” in London, he wore a loose gray Dior suit, combined with a black turtleneck to create an overall youthful and modern outfit.
The common point in the suits worn by Justin Bieber, Robert Pattinson, or Timothee Chalamet lies in a somewhat relaxed figure, saying no to shirts and ties. In the past, men valued the fit factor when ordering a suit and tie as an accessory they could not do without, but the reality is different today.
During their meeting at the G7 summit in the Alps in June 2022, a group of leaders took a photo that made waves in the fashion world. The reason was simple: none of them wore ties even though they were all wearing suits. Men’s fashion editor Derek Guy later posted this photo on his personal Twitter page with the caption “tie is dead”.
Obviously, “suit and tie” has returned to be fresh and bolder than before, from the silk shirt samples at Celine Homme’s Spring/Summer 2023 show to the vest worn with torn jeans by Egonlab or the matching tie. with Dries Van Noten pocket pants. The CEO of Moss Bros – a famous brand of tailoring – explains: “Suits follow fashion trends just like any other fashion item. The suit we see today is softer and more casual.”
Along with the rise of Gen Z, an open and free generation, “suit and tie” will surely appear in many more surprising and interesting new variations.
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