Fall Winter 2022, Jean Paul Gaultier reunites with Haute Couture Fashion Week. Collection by Olivier Rousteing
Jean paul gaultier the bad boy of haute couture
Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2020 season, fans receive “bad news”: designer Jean Paul Gaultier retires. This will be his last Haute Couture collection. However, Gaultier’s retirement does not mean that his eponymous brand has come to an end. The brand still thrives with the legacy that Gaultier has built over the years.
Therefore, the touching moment for those who love fashion and Jean Paul Gaultier is probably the moment Olivier Rousteing holds the hand of the brand founder, at the end of the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2022 show. Both stood together. greet the audience from the balcony of the performance venue. Earlier, a performance model gave Jean Paul Gaultier a rose, paying tribute to the famous Couture designer.
Rousteing opened the show with a series of menswear designs, directly inspired by Gaultier’s 1994 Les Tatouges (tattoo) collection. For him, that year’s collection made a mark on diversity. Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022/23 extends Jean Paul Gaultier’s legacy in the midst of world fashion: conical bras, sailor stripes.
Translating the rebellious spirit of founder Jean Paul Gaultier, Olivier Rousteing (current Creative Director of Balmain) delivers designs boldly in Gaultier’s DNA.
With more than 200 designs released, the show encapsulates the French designer’s more than 50-year fashion career. The ethnic diversity, gender, recycling trends and sustainability pursued by many fashion houses have long been Gaultier’s inseparable DNA.
Jean Paul Gaultier never received formal fashion training. His grandmother was the one who inspired and nurtured the passion for fashion in the boy Gaultier. Gaultier’s Teddy Bear was the first “model” to wear Jean Paul Gaultier ‘s early fashion creations .
At the age of 18, Jean Paul Gaultier submitted his design sketches to 27 fashion companies. Realizing the exceptional talent of the Val-de-Marne boy through sketches, fashion legend Pierre Cardin recruited him. After a year as an assistant to Pierre Cardin, Gaultier moved on to work with Jaques Esterel.
Around this time, the French designer began to define his personal style. Next, Gaultier moved to work for couture house Jean Patou. One of the best things about working at Jean Patou is meeting Jean Paul Gaultier’s expectations in fashion.
In 1974, Jean Paul Gaultier returned to Pierre Cardin, the branch manager in Manila.
In 1976, Jean Paul Gaultier launched his first personal collection. However, it was not until 1982 that he founded the brand thanks to the encouragement of his partner and life partner, Francis Menuge. “Francis always urges me to start a serious business, because I am not a very ambitious person. I want to be a designer, but I don’t want to create my own brand… If I hadn’t met Francis, I would be a different person now,” said Jean Paul Gaultier.
A worshiper of individualism and breakthrough, Jean Paul Gaultier stands apart from conventional fashion norms. In each show of Jean Paul Gaultier, models are diverse in body shape, age and gender. It could be an old man, a plump girl, voluptuous. Gaultier’s model is sometimes a star of the entertainment industry, can also be a laborer.
He explained: “There is no single type of beauty in the world. There are so many different beauties.”
In 1984, in shows in Paris and London, Gaultier introduced the wrap dress… for men. For him, clothing should be bisexual. It’s shocking! Everyone talks about that.
When asked: “Do you really think men can wear skirts?” Jean Paul Gaultier responded by wearing multiple dresses! This event also marked the nickname L’Enfant terrible (bad boy) that the fashion village gave Gaultier.
“In Gaultier’s world, ‘beautiful and quiet’ doesn’t exist,” he said. So he likes to be the rebellious bad boy. Gaultier once confided: The ‘bad boy’ in me always gives me vitality and strength.
Gaultier aspires to abolish established social conventions and categories. With the Toy Boy collection in 1983, the French designer turned the sailor plaid (breton or marinière) into a very trendy outfit. This pattern when used for women is also extremely sexy.
In the Fall/Winter 1984 collection, he introduced a corset dress with a conical bra. Design a skirt that hugs the body like a corset; with the obvious provocative detail of the exaggerated bust at the center of the dress.
This conical bra design then made a pop culture sensation, when Madonna wore the Blond Ambition show in 1990. In 1994, the Les Tatouages collection with tattoo motifs printed on silk. . When worn, they blend in with the body like a real tattoo.
After two decades of launching a ready-to-wear brand, Gaultier entered the realm of Haute Couture. With the ultimate luxury game of fashion, the bad boy continues to think about blurring gender lines.
“I support gender equality. If there is haute couture for women, why can’t men?” asked Jean Paul Gaultier in the Haute Couture Spring 1997 collection.
Gaultier’s design ideas mostly come from astrology; religious symbols, Celtic, calligraphy, tattoos and traditional costumes from around the world. With Haute Couture designs, the outfits are unusual and playful. He pioneered to bring street culture into Haute Couture.
The concept of hermaphroditism (androgyny) is something where Gaultier has reached its limits. Gaultier once posed the question: “What is masculinity and what is femininity?”. To answer, his designs are the clearest evidence for eradicating gender stereotypes in fashion.
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